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More than two million people live in the capital – one fifth of the population – and everything converges here: roads and rail lines; air travel (Ferihegy is the country’s only civilian airport); industry, commerce and culture; opportunities, wealth and power. Like Paris, the city has a history of revolutions – in 1849, 1918 and 1956 – buildings, parks and avenues on a monumental scale, and a reputation for hedonism, style and parochial pride. In short, Budapest is an interesting spot overlooked by most Americans—-perfect for me.

The photos from the embankments or the bastions of the Vár (Castle Hill) make it easy to see why the city was dubbed the “Pearl of the Danube.” Roccoco buildings and bridges are magnificent, especially when floodlit. The eclectic inner-city and radial boulevards are a mish mash of old and new.  The local Magyar character makes it all unique.  Since the Communist system collapsed luxury hotels and malls, restaurants, bars and clubs have all proliferated – as have crime and social inequalities.  I read that the number of beggars and homeless people on the streets has risen. An interesting place, no?  There’s more.

The sex industry  has earned Budapest the nickname, “Bangkok of Europe,” and the law and order crowd has been cracking down.  That means not only hookers and johns get nailed but refugees and illegal immigrants (Africans and Arabs) are thoroughly hammered. The right wing is gaining the upper hand. A new repressive constitution took effect January 1, and the authoritarians who prefer order to other things human, hold sway. But the counterculture has strength too and the Hungarians are master infighters who know their way ’round the underground. I regret missing the ’56— ’57 Russian invasion, altho I couldn’t yet read, much less acquire a passport.  No excuses this time.

Budapest is cheap and still a window on historic Mitteleuropa, but also a  political hot spot with a potential revolutionary flavor—which makes me nostalgic for Berkeley in ’71 and Mario Puzo and SDS and all that.  Plus, I get a kick out of visiting communist  countries—China, Vietnam and Laos–where paradox, contradiction and irony rule the day.  Hungary was part of the Eastern European Russian block for 45 years, and now that they are headed back to what sounds a lot like a repressive  communist style government, it would be interesting to head over and have a chat with a few of the locals.

So, time to book tix for summer, before Phoenix morphs into Riyadh and I hate myself for spending summers in this beastly sweatbox. And before the groaty fascists close the borders (again) to westerners.  Besides, it’s a stone’s throw from Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro and the Dalmatian coast.  And y’all know what that will inevitably lead to.